Victor Hugo (1802-1885), the author of "Les Miserables" had a special relationship with Brussels. When I went to visit the city on Christmas holiday, I decided to take a view of Brussels as seen through Hugo's eyes.
As a political refugee in 1852 Hugo found a safe haven in Grand Place. In 1862 all the talk in Brussels was about Hugo's "Les Miserables", which was published by a Brussels publishing house.
Grand Place
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| Masion du Roi |
Masion du Roi is a medieval-style "King's House" and is now home to the Musee de la Ville de Bruxelles (museum of Brussels), a miscellaneous
history of the city.
The houses in the Grand Place are built in a Renaissance style of the late 16th and 17th centuries.
The Grand Place is one of the main tourist attractions in Brussels. I was there Christmas Eve day and the square was filled with people from all over the world. I could hear Japanese, Korean, Australian, Spanish and of course, British English. I'm sure I wasn't the only American, but I didn't hear my particular accent in the square. Hugo's flat was in the Le Cornet looking out over the square.
Around the Grand Place
The Le Cornet was once a boatmen's guild house. The far right building includes six figures representing the essential elements of bread making and is called Maison des Boulangers.
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| Galeries Saint-Hubert |
No doubt Victor Hugo would have shopped in this 19th century arcade, Galeries Saint-Hubert at the time was the longest covered shopping arcade in the world. Many exiles, like Hugo, would meet at one of the galleries.
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| Saint Catherine Church |
St. Catherine's church was near my hotel and the front square was home to the Christmas markets.
The church is under renovation or "cleaning" as shown in the picture left. You can see the dramatic difference from the cleaned side and the worn side of the church.
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| Cathedral of Saint Michael & Saint Gudula |
From his first visit, Hugo was fascinated by the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula because it reminded him of Notre Dame in Paris. I've seen Notre Dame and I have to agree. The Gothic style is quite similar. A more up close photo of the church is below.
Central Brussels
Central Brussels is shaped much like a pentagon. Walking through Brussels is quite easy and you can spend a couple of days and see the whole city. Central Brussels is known as the aristocratic upper town. The area is filled with parks, restaurants, bars and monuments.
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| Place du Congres Congresplein |
Victor Hugo's home is located in Place des Barricades, a beautiful neoclassical home. The plaque below bears his signature with the words, "I am the brother of all people and the host for all peoples." Like Victor Hugo, I did fall in love with Brussels European Capital feel of people, culture and commerce.
Outer Brussels
Just outside the city center is the lovely Parc Leopold named after King Leopold II. He was Brussels second king from 1865 to 1909. Although he did preside over and created a modern and thriving Brussels he was also quite ruthless and many people died under his reign. One of the highlights of this area is the Antoine Wiertz museum. Wiertz fashioned himself on the level of Michelangelo and felt Brussels was every bit an artistic community as Paris. The museum is his studio and is quite small but impressive just the same.
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| Parc Leopold |
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| Wiertz Museum is on the right |
Other Bits of Brussels Architecture, Life & Culture
Getting to the outer part of Brussels is quite easy and efficient with their public transit system. Buy a pass and start traveling. The system is fairly easy to follow and if you get lost, don't be afraid to ask directions. Belgians are quite friendly and helpful.
I would be remiss if I didn't mention the one thing that I really loved about Brussels...mussels. Mussels are one of my favorite foods and they are plentiful in Brussels. Food is expensive but really very good. I did happen to find a little restaurant off the Grand Place that actually had mussels, fries and beer (Chimay Blu is my favorite) for only 10 euros!
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| Christmas Eve Meal...Yum! |
Just a few other photos...
My next post will be on one of Belgium's most beautiful and architecturally magnificent cities, Bruges.
