On 26 June 2013 I wrote about my fall where I broke both my wrists. I can't believe it has been two years. My wrists are still healing but I can see improvement. 

I'm back in the States, but admit I do miss Europe and especially my friends in Slovakia. 

Plot Twist with Many Thanks to Skypers and Friends

26 June 2013 will forever be embedded in my memory.  I saw a great performance by Iron Maiden (read my review) and on my trip home was spooked by someone resulting in me running, falling down and breaking both my wrists.  After four weeks and an operation on both wrists inserting pins into each, I'm only one-sixth the way through the six month healing process.

Here is my throwback post...http://robinsgreatadventure.blogspot.com/search?q=wrists

Make Your Plans Now for the Indian Summer Music Festival in Levoca, Slovakia

Drinking champagne at Kastiel Pechy

David Conway, organizer for the Indian Summer Music Festival 2015, recently wrote and asked for a quote about the festival to add it to the Facebook page about the festival. It brought back to mind the wonderful times I had at the festival in 2012 and 2013.

Levoca is a beautiful, ancient historical village in Slovakia. Here are some photos and my past posts on the festival. Not sure if I will be able to make it to Slovakia this year, but I have my memories.

October 1, 2012; Music...The International Language

October 8, 2013: Indian Summer Music Festival, Levoca

Women whom their husbands felt needed "correction" were placed in the cage.

House's in Levoca

Town Hall

My Goodbye to Central Europe…For Now

This is my farewell post to Slovakia…at least for now. I will be leaving the country soon to have other adventures. It has been such a treat to be here and I love Central Europe. Slovakia (the center of the center of Europe) is a beautiful country.  I did some calculations and realized that in the past 19 months I've visited 8 countries; Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Poland, The Netherlands, Belgium, Italy and Turkey, and two continents; Europe and Turkey. Wow, I'm a little overwhelmed just thinking about it.

River Vah in Piestany January 2014

I have composed some of the best of my 50+ posts of my travels in and around Slovakia. I'm not saying goodbye, only čau, because I will be back. I'll keep posting on my experiences and travels and hope you will continue to follow my adventures.

Slovakia

It's hard to pick the best. While living here I've visited seven castles in Slovakia; Bratislava (my first), Trenčin (I lived there for four months), Beckov, Banska Stiavnica, Bojnice, and Orava and my personal favorite, Spiš Castle.  Spiš is located near the village of Levoča where I met Nadia and David Conway on my first trip in Slovakia. I've had the pleasure of visiting Levoča three times, twice to experience the Indian Summer Music Festival hosted by David and Nadia.

Spiš Castle

There are other adventures as well; two wine tasting tours and the summer party in Čachtice with the Skypers team. 

Wine tour May 2013

Austria

Salzburg Austria August 2012

I've visited Vienna several times, and it's alway a pleasure but I think the Vienna Christmas market, the bike wine tour and the trip to Salzburg are the most memorial.

Wine bike tour Wachau Valley, Austria

Hungary

Budapest is a must see on any European tour. I'm so glad I saw it early in my stay because it was such a lovely way to start my adventure in Central Europe.

Parliament, Pest August 2012

Poland

If Budapest was a nice first entry to my travel life in Central Europe, Krakow was the bang up finish. What a city! I absolutely loved it. Although Auschwitz provided a solemn historical view, it was well worth the experience.  

Wawel Royal Castle, Krakow Jan 2014

Italy

Even though I had been to Italy before, the trip I took with the Rotary members that included two of my students, was a highlight of my travels to date. I cherished the four day trip through Tuscany. Of all the places I've been, Italy has a special place in my heart and I know I will be back again.

Montepulciano, Italy Spring 2013

The Netherlands

Amsterdam had been on my travel "to do" list for some time. So, Christmas 2012 I had a weeks paid vacation and decided to make it one of my stops. Amsterdam is an incredible city. It is one of those places that mixes history with a contemporary flair and nothing looks out-of-place.

Amsterdam, December 2012

Belgium

Ooh…what a night. I celebrated Christmas 2012 with Bruges for breakfast, lunch in Ghent and dinner (mussels and a Gamay Blue) in Brussels. The Christmas markets were beyond what I had seen with carousels and joy rides, but I believed I enjoyed the music museum most.

Bruges Christmas Day 2012

Grand Place, Brussels December 2012

Turkey

Antalya, Turkey

Pamukkale, Turkey

My trip to Turkey was the first time I'd ever been on a tour. I've never liked the thought of being shoved to and fro and honestly this tour didn't change my mind. I like to see places on my own. It was a week long plane and bus ride with 30 Slovaks who didn't speak English. Now… there's an adventure. I wish we'd had a longer stay in Istanbul (I guess I'll just have to go back) however, if I hadn't gone on a tour, I don't think I would have seen as much of the country; Ephesus, Pamukkale, and Antalya  

Theatre in Ephesus, Turkey March 2013

Whew…there you have it.  Almost two years in a nutshell. In the immortal words of an Austrian actor turned California Governor…"I'll be back!"

Oravský hrad (Orava Castle) above the Orava River in Oravský Podzámok, Slovakia

Oravský hrad (Orava Castle)

Built from the rock high above the little village of Oravský Podzámok sits Oravský hrad or Orava Castle. The castle dates back to the 13th century during the Kingdom of Hungary as do many of the castles in Slovakia, except Spis Castle which dates back to the Celts in 500 BC.

Now, perhaps Orava Castle is just as old, but we don't know. I can attest it is one of the most beautiful in Slovakia and has the most rooms, towers, and individual castle gates of any I've seen in the country. One of my students insists Oravský hrad  is the largest in Slovakia but after seeing it, even though it is truly magnificent, I still think, at least by area mass, Spis is larger.

Orava Castle view from the town road 

The trip there…

Before I get too involved in the castle and the lovely village of Oravský Podzámok, I want to talk about the trip there.  It took about 4 hours from Piešťany by two trains.  The first is the cross country train I've taken many times traveling from west to east. But this time, I changed in Kraľovany (about 2 1/2 hours from Piešťany) to a small village train that takes the mountain route along the Orava River.  

The river is quite green in color with overhanging tree branches drenched in green moss or silt.  I'm not sure if this is because of the thermal waters of the area or for some other reason. I know the Vah River that runs through Piešťany also has a slight greenish color.  There is a large lake or reservoir we past with what looked like marshmallows floating on top, but on closer examination, I discovered there were throngs of wine swans or geese dotting the water.  The river is surrounded by a forest of trees, some still green but others so dense and bare they had a purple hue to them.  I wish I had been traveling by car so I could have stopped to take some photos, but my photos really don't do justice to the scenery.

Oravský Podzámok

I was really hoping for some snow but actually the weather was very nice and there were only a few patches of snow on the ground. The village is a juxtaposition of modern walkways and houses and baroque architecture. Most everything was closed but since I had to wait an hour before the tour began, I decided to get some lunch. As with Slovakia, everything is hidden, but I did find a pizza place open.  I chose a small table in the back next to the life-size poster of Jim Morrison (shirtless of course), with two cloth pictures of coffee on either side.

The towers are 112 meters above the Orava River and dominate the village. The pic doesn't really allow for the majesty of what it looks like as you are standing below and looking up.

A view of the Orava River from below the castle's first gate.

The tour is only in Slovak and you can't walk around the castle yourself, you have to stay with the tour.  The castle is laid out with about 5 tiers of towers, gates including a museum and St. Michael's chapel.  Each area has several rooms filled with centuries old artifacts, painting, and mosaics, which is probably why you can't roam freely throughout the castle. We weren't allowed to take pictures in some of the rooms but I've provided a few pics below so you can see the various ornate artwork. Probably the most notable thing, besides the sheer beauty of the castle is that many scenes of the 1922 film Nosferatu.

The first castle gate has one of the few drawbridges in any castle in Slovakia. The pic of the door below is locked and you can't even leave the castle if you want to without being with a guide.  The security is quite tight.

Once you are inside, the different levels of towers and buildings are quite overwhelming. Much of the castle was burned in the 1800s but up until that time, there was nothing that could penetrate the castle or its inhabitants. 

The castle was opened to the public after restorations in 1968 when the museum was finished.

The Corvinius Palace

The Corvinius Palace was built by the Hungarian King, Matias Corninius in the late 15th century and restored by the Earl Palffy from its original Gothic style to Romantic.

The residential tower

What castle would be complete without a coat of arms.

The top of the castle and final tower is the Palace of Ján of Dubovec (circled in red) built in the first half of the 16th century for noble palace residents.

At the very top and carved into the mountain is the Citadel - archaeological exposition (red circle). The Citadel is one of the oldest parts of the castle and originates by to the Thurzo family who took charge of the castle in the 16th century and then after it was burnt in the 1800s the Palffy family completed much of the restoration.  After WWII the castle became a national monument.

Deň Otvorených Pivníc (Day of Open Cellars) 2013

Skypers crew waiting to start our first wine tasting experience

On a beautiful fall day, the Skypers Language School teachers, spouses and friends, traveled to the Modra and Pezinok regions of Slovakia for a day (and night) wine tasting extravaganza.

We started at Elesko winery and art gallery in Modra.  Elesko is one of the largest wineries in Slovakia and is very modern.  The premise of the winery is to offer good food, great wines and art combined for a complete cultural experience.  We had a private tour to see the Andy Warhol collection (which I loved) along with other Slovak and British artists.  





You can rent an apartment for 1000€ a night for you and nine other friends; including food and wine I suppose that isn't too bad for one evening. Elesko supplies many Vinotéka's in Slovakia.

From Elesko we traveled to the town of Modra and visited several wineries along the main square of the city. At Chateau Modra I purchased a lovely sparkling rose wine, Sekt Poiffy. It will be very nice in the spring or summer with a light meal. I also purchase a bottle of Tramin.  A fine, light white wine from Vinko Klimo Modra.  The owner was actually doing the pouring for the wine tasting. We stopped by Pereg, but frankly I am not a fan of their wines.  However, our French teacher, Elenka loves their blackberry wine and she and her husband picked up several bottles…after all Christmas is coming.

After Modra we made a quick stop to a Šenkvice winery, Karpatská Perla. Great choice because I bought a delicious full-bodied Pinot Noir. I also sampled a Pinot Gris that was nice and dry, not too sweet, but I didn't  make the purchase.  I had remorse afterwards but found out I can purchase the wine in Piešťany.  

It was off to Pezinok. Next to Modra, Pezinok is probably the best known wine area. I visited three wineries and had sushi (yea!) a real treat for me. I got separated from the group and missed the last winery were everyone raved about the wines.  Oh well, maybe next time. I did purchase an acceptable Dornfelder, for 5€. A bargain especially when you consider the tour gives you back 20€ as wine coupons, and a smooth, easy tasting Frankovka Modra at the Radničná Vinotéka. They had a steel tower you could climb to get a wonderful view of the vineyards and we saw a beautiful fall sunset.  The winery offered cakes and coffee to complete the wine experience.

Enjoying the view

Sunset over the vineyard and village

Our last stop was in the Svätý Jur region near Bratislava.  I sampled many wines at the 4 stops we made, but many of the wines were just too sweet for me.  One winery had the best atmosphere, Šulkova Pivnica. There was a well-kept garden with water features and manicured trees and bushes.  The cellar looked to have the original stone masonry, decorated with medieval type of characters and antique furniture. Too bad their wines weren't to my taste.

The wine tour or wine road as it is called in Slovakia, happens yearly.  If you're interested, check out the link below and happy drinking!

http://www.mvc.sk/den-otvorenych-pivnic-2013/articles/den-otvorenych-pivnic-2013

Victoria Regia in Piestany, Slovakia

Are we having fun yet?

This weekend was the 20th annual flower arranging competition, Victoria Regia, culminating in a traditional flower parade from spa island through the town of Piestany.  The Victoria Regia is the largest floral event in Slovakia and marks the end of the summer season. 

I stood fixed in position along the spa bridge with my camera aimed and ready to fire at the participating floats as they slowly made their way across the Vah. After a slight rain shower the sun came out and the day finished quite nicely. 

Here's a few photos for those of you who can't get enough of parades (in any country).


What parade isn't complete without a marching band?

And Fairies of course!

After the parade the main floats were on display in the town square where one can get up close and personal with the characters.

The berries on the apple looked good enough to eat

A homage to Monsters, Inc.

Báthoryčkina kvapka krvi (Drop of Blood)

A wooden statue of Elizabeth is brought into the village center to "watch over" the celebrations. 

One of the things I love most about living in Slovakia is the many village events, especially in summer.  This weekend I had the pleasure of attending Báthoryčkina kvapka krvi in Cachtice.  Every year the 6,300 residents of Cachtice celebrate their most famous resident, Countess Elizabeth Bathory.  There has been movies made and stories told throughout the centuries about Erzsébet (Elizabeth) Bathory, a 16th century Hungarian noblewoman who was convicted and imprisoned in her own castle for allegedly murdering over 600 women for their blood.  Supposedly she thought their blood would keep her young.

The festival, organized by the Cachticky Ring (civic minded locals), hosts an annual blood drive (naturally), music, crafts (old and new), and of course, wine tastings, has become a staple in this little hamlet between Piestany and Nove Mesto nad Vahom. 

Music is really the centerpiece of the event with a large stage highlighting acts from around Slovakia to entertain the guests.  As their parents watch, children dance and play in front of the stage.

You never know what you might find at the medieval booths scattered throughout the square.

The Bathory castle burnt down in the 1700s, but one room is now under renovation and will hopefully open for visitors next summer. I'm really looking forward to seeing it!

Top Five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Slovakia

If you have been following my blog, you know I’ve had the pleasure of living in Slovakia as an ESL (English as a second language) teacher since July 2012.  Over the last several months I’ve traveled to many of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in this amazing and beautiful country.  Here are my top sites to see and a list of those I have on my “bucket list” before I leave this jewel of Central Europe.

Spis Castle view from the bottom of the hill

1. Spis Castle Listed UNESCO site 1993
One of the most formidable and oldest castle's in Slovakia, Spis Castle (Spissky hrad) dates from the 11th century and was the largest fortress complex in Central Europe with about 2,000 occupants.  Much of the castle burned down in 1780 but it is gradually being restored.  It is by far the most impressive sight from a distance.

The entrance gate leads to the lower part of the castle courtyards and is nearly 985 ft (300 m) long and 380 ft (115 m) wide.  There are walkways through the courtyards to the palace museum and chapel.

Entrance Gate

I climbed the rock stairs that are quite narrow with chains as railing handles, to the highest most point of the Romanesque upper castle tower built in the 13th century.  I do have a bit of Vertigo so this was a challenge but all worthwhile.

Information: www.spisskemuzeum.com

The town of Spisske Podhradie from the castle

2. Levoca, Historic Town Listed UNESCO World Heritage site 2009
Levoca, a beautiful, quaint village located in Eastern Slovakia between the high Tatras and Slovenske Rudohorie Mountains and Spis Castle should be on any must see list.   The architecture and artistic detail of the structures are like listening to a majestic symphony. 

 Historic homes on the square that have been preserved

There are some 60 historic houses around the main square.  Most are very well preserved in Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Neo-Classical buildings.

The Church of St. James is quite impressive but one of the biggest attractions in the main square is the former Town Hall displaying the works of Master Pavol, a Slovak national artist. If you have the opportunity visit the Pavol museum and see the artists amazing life-size wood sculptures.   Last year I had the pleasure of attending Indian Summer in Levoca. A great classical concert series and hope to attend this year too.

  

Cage of Disgrace

One of my favorite little bits in town is the "Cage of Disgrace," in which women who had committed minor crimes would be placed on display.  This wrought-iron contraption by the south wall of the town hall dates from the 16th century.  Women were locked up and put on public display for crimes ranging from nagging your husband to prostitution. Information: www.levoca.sk

3. Banska Stiavnica, Mining Centre listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Banska Stiavnica is located in Central Slovakia, what was Europe’s main mining centre during the 13th and 18th centuries and grew into the third-largest town in the Hungarian Kingdom.  In the center of town is Holy Trinity Square (Namestie sv. Tropic), decorated with Gothic and Renaissance houses.  The Holy Trinity monument is sandstone Baroque as much of the architecture in Slovakia.  The 15th century Church of St. Catherine (sv. Katerina) is located on the south-side of the square.

Entrance to the main square

Wall mosaic

Weights in the church bell tower

When the town was threatened by the Turks, the Old Castle was turned from a church into a fortress and is currently being restored, prizing many amazing artifacts.  The New Castle on a hill south of the centre was also built to ward off the Turks.  The town boasts the magnificent Mining Museum with an open air area outside the centre.

Information: www.banskastiavnica.sk

View of the chapel from the church tower

4. Vlkolinec, Typical Timber Village listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Named by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1993, Vlkolinec is near the large industrial town of Ruzomberok, and is a unique example of well-preserved timber houses in a typical village in the Lipton region.  The 47 farmhouses are still inhabited and include interesting features such as an old well, which still supplies the village with water, and a 1770 belfry of the Baroque Church of the Virgin Mary. A unique feature of the settlement are parcels of land that surround the village retain the extended shape and characteristic of medieval land allotment over most of feudal Europe.

5. Caves of the Solvency Kras listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1995
Running along the Slovak-Hungarian border in the Southeast part of Slovakia, the 4,450 limestone caves are one of the country’s karst phenomena.  Four caves; Domica, Gombasecka, Ochtinska aragonitova and Jasovska are partly open to the public.  A fifth cave, Dobsina ice cave, is in the Solvency raj (Slovak Paradise), another karst area about 25 miles (40 km) to the Northwest.  
Information, www.ssj.sk.

The best time to visit these sites is probably late spring or summer.  I've only been to the first three so the other two will have to wait.  Maybe this coming year I'll be able to get there.  There are over 20 UNESCO sites in Slovakia. If I was visiting or a couple of weeks I would rent a car as public transportation is a bit difficult to reach all the sites. Start in Central Slovakia at Banska Stiavnica, travel a short distance to Vlkolinec, then go east to Levoca, Spis Castle and finish with a tour of the Solvensky kras.  Slovakia truly is the gem of Central Europe!