Indian Summer Music Festival in Levoca 2013

Drinking a glass of champagne at Kastiel Pechy 

After being cooped up all summer and just wanting to get away for the weekend, I was really looking forward to going to The Indian Summer Festival in Levoca this year.  I had such a wonderful time last year with David and Nadia Conway (the organizers of the festival) and friends Keith and Jenny Page, I wasn't sure it could be topped.  Sure enough, this year was terrific and didn't disappoint.

Friday's performance by Jonathan Powell tickling the ivory's of the Conway's own magnificent piano performing Johannes Brahms Piano Concerto no. 2 in B flat major op. 83 was a delight to the ears.  I met Jonathan at last year's festival but had to leave before hearing him play so I was very excited to hear him play.  

After a lovely morning at Spis Castle, it never gets old.  I believe I actually saw more areas like the battle area in the photo below, I hadn't seen last year.

Remind anyone of Game of Thrones???
















And last year I also missed the bird sanctuary with various owls, falcons and doves. Just look at this beautiful snow owl!

Saturday afternoon after was a delight at Kastiel Pecky listening to the great Slovak cellist Jozef Luptak and accordion (not what you think) musician Boris Lenko. Jozef  and Boris performed the music of Bach, Scarlatti and Shostakovich. Jozef played a solo personal piece Song Without Words (my favorite).   The setting was breathtaking as you can see from my intro photo.  Nothing like a glass of champagne to put you in the mood for classical music.

Levoca and the surrounding area is one of the most beautiful places in Slovakia.  Besides being a treasure in Slovakia Levoca and Spis Castle are both on the UNESCO list.  I'm amazing at how many of my students have never seen Levoca or Spis Castle.  I wish Slovaks would make the trip east and experience this magical place.

If you are in Slovakia next October please be sure to come to Levoca for the best classical music festival in Central Europe.  http://www.lblfestival.eu

Top Five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Slovakia

If you have been following my blog, you know I’ve had the pleasure of living in Slovakia as an ESL (English as a second language) teacher since July 2012.  Over the last several months I’ve traveled to many of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in this amazing and beautiful country.  Here are my top sites to see and a list of those I have on my “bucket list” before I leave this jewel of Central Europe.

Spis Castle view from the bottom of the hill

1. Spis Castle Listed UNESCO site 1993
One of the most formidable and oldest castle's in Slovakia, Spis Castle (Spissky hrad) dates from the 11th century and was the largest fortress complex in Central Europe with about 2,000 occupants.  Much of the castle burned down in 1780 but it is gradually being restored.  It is by far the most impressive sight from a distance.

The entrance gate leads to the lower part of the castle courtyards and is nearly 985 ft (300 m) long and 380 ft (115 m) wide.  There are walkways through the courtyards to the palace museum and chapel.

Entrance Gate

I climbed the rock stairs that are quite narrow with chains as railing handles, to the highest most point of the Romanesque upper castle tower built in the 13th century.  I do have a bit of Vertigo so this was a challenge but all worthwhile.

Information: www.spisskemuzeum.com

The town of Spisske Podhradie from the castle

2. Levoca, Historic Town Listed UNESCO World Heritage site 2009
Levoca, a beautiful, quaint village located in Eastern Slovakia between the high Tatras and Slovenske Rudohorie Mountains and Spis Castle should be on any must see list.   The architecture and artistic detail of the structures are like listening to a majestic symphony. 

 Historic homes on the square that have been preserved

There are some 60 historic houses around the main square.  Most are very well preserved in Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Neo-Classical buildings.

The Church of St. James is quite impressive but one of the biggest attractions in the main square is the former Town Hall displaying the works of Master Pavol, a Slovak national artist. If you have the opportunity visit the Pavol museum and see the artists amazing life-size wood sculptures.   Last year I had the pleasure of attending Indian Summer in Levoca. A great classical concert series and hope to attend this year too.

  

Cage of Disgrace

One of my favorite little bits in town is the "Cage of Disgrace," in which women who had committed minor crimes would be placed on display.  This wrought-iron contraption by the south wall of the town hall dates from the 16th century.  Women were locked up and put on public display for crimes ranging from nagging your husband to prostitution. Information: www.levoca.sk

3. Banska Stiavnica, Mining Centre listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Banska Stiavnica is located in Central Slovakia, what was Europe’s main mining centre during the 13th and 18th centuries and grew into the third-largest town in the Hungarian Kingdom.  In the center of town is Holy Trinity Square (Namestie sv. Tropic), decorated with Gothic and Renaissance houses.  The Holy Trinity monument is sandstone Baroque as much of the architecture in Slovakia.  The 15th century Church of St. Catherine (sv. Katerina) is located on the south-side of the square.

Entrance to the main square

Wall mosaic

Weights in the church bell tower

When the town was threatened by the Turks, the Old Castle was turned from a church into a fortress and is currently being restored, prizing many amazing artifacts.  The New Castle on a hill south of the centre was also built to ward off the Turks.  The town boasts the magnificent Mining Museum with an open air area outside the centre.

Information: www.banskastiavnica.sk

View of the chapel from the church tower

4. Vlkolinec, Typical Timber Village listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Named by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1993, Vlkolinec is near the large industrial town of Ruzomberok, and is a unique example of well-preserved timber houses in a typical village in the Lipton region.  The 47 farmhouses are still inhabited and include interesting features such as an old well, which still supplies the village with water, and a 1770 belfry of the Baroque Church of the Virgin Mary. A unique feature of the settlement are parcels of land that surround the village retain the extended shape and characteristic of medieval land allotment over most of feudal Europe.

5. Caves of the Solvency Kras listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1995
Running along the Slovak-Hungarian border in the Southeast part of Slovakia, the 4,450 limestone caves are one of the country’s karst phenomena.  Four caves; Domica, Gombasecka, Ochtinska aragonitova and Jasovska are partly open to the public.  A fifth cave, Dobsina ice cave, is in the Solvency raj (Slovak Paradise), another karst area about 25 miles (40 km) to the Northwest.  
Information, www.ssj.sk.

The best time to visit these sites is probably late spring or summer.  I've only been to the first three so the other two will have to wait.  Maybe this coming year I'll be able to get there.  There are over 20 UNESCO sites in Slovakia. If I was visiting or a couple of weeks I would rent a car as public transportation is a bit difficult to reach all the sites. Start in Central Slovakia at Banska Stiavnica, travel a short distance to Vlkolinec, then go east to Levoca, Spis Castle and finish with a tour of the Solvensky kras.  Slovakia truly is the gem of Central Europe!

Levoca, the Gem of Slovakia

Levoca, the Gem of Slovakia

With just a few days to spare prior to the start of the school year, I decided to travel to East Slovakia.  I'd heard Levoca, a beautiful, quaint village between the high Tatras and Slovenske Rudohorie Mountains should be on my must see list.  It didn't disappoint.  The architecture and artistic detail of the structures are like listening to a majestic symphony.  

Historic homes on the square that have been preserved

There are some 60 historic houses around the main square.  Most are very well preserved in Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance and Neo-Classical buildings.

Detailed building paintings 

Historic Town Hall in Levoca

The Church of St. James is quite impressive but one of the biggest attractions in the main square is the former Town Hall displaying the works of Master Pavol.  Levoca and neighboring Spis Castle (see below) are on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

The Cage of Disgrace

One of my favorite little bits in town is the "Cage of Disgrace," in which women who had committed minor crimes would be placed on display.  I have heard the crimes range from nagging your husband to prostitution.








As fate would have it, I was eating dinner in the hotel restaurant when I overheard a couple sitting at the next table speaking English.  I asked them a question and before I knew it I was sitting with David and Nadia Conway at their table having dinner and hearing all about life in Levoca.  David and Nadia purchased a historical home in town and renovated it over about 18 months. Many thanks to the Conway's for showing me there beautifully restored home.

Nadia is originally from Slovakia but moved to England as a young women.  She and David returned to Slovakia after the regime fall and fell in love with Levoca.  David, a classical musician and music enthusiast and Nadia started the Indian Summer in Levoca an international music festival five years ago. It runs September 28 - October 4. I'm really hoping I'll be able to travel to Levoca for the festival.  

Spis Castle

One of the most formidable and oldest castle's in Slovakia, Spis Castle (Spissky hrad) dates from the 11th century and was the largest fortress complex in Central Europe with about 2,000 occupants.  Much of the castle burned down in 1780 but it is gradually being restored.  It is by far the most impressive sight from a distance.  I don't think this photo really does it justice.

This is the entrance gate that leads to the lower part of the castle courtyards.  There are walkways through the courtyards to the palace museum and chapel.

Entrance Gate

I climbed up rock stairs that are quite narrow with chains as railing handles, to the highest most point of the upper castle tower.  I do have a bit of Vertigo so this was a challenge but all worthwhile.  This photo really doesn't do the magnitude of the town, Spisske Podhradie (which means below the castle) justice.

I will be posting my photo albums on my Facebook page.  Thanks for reading and please give me your feedback. Or if you have Skype, let's talk.  I need to practice my English!

Dovidenia