Deň Otvorených Pivníc (Day of Open Cellars) 2013

Skypers crew waiting to start our first wine tasting experience

On a beautiful fall day, the Skypers Language School teachers, spouses and friends, traveled to the Modra and Pezinok regions of Slovakia for a day (and night) wine tasting extravaganza.

We started at Elesko winery and art gallery in Modra.  Elesko is one of the largest wineries in Slovakia and is very modern.  The premise of the winery is to offer good food, great wines and art combined for a complete cultural experience.  We had a private tour to see the Andy Warhol collection (which I loved) along with other Slovak and British artists.  





You can rent an apartment for 1000€ a night for you and nine other friends; including food and wine I suppose that isn't too bad for one evening. Elesko supplies many Vinotéka's in Slovakia.

From Elesko we traveled to the town of Modra and visited several wineries along the main square of the city. At Chateau Modra I purchased a lovely sparkling rose wine, Sekt Poiffy. It will be very nice in the spring or summer with a light meal. I also purchase a bottle of Tramin.  A fine, light white wine from Vinko Klimo Modra.  The owner was actually doing the pouring for the wine tasting. We stopped by Pereg, but frankly I am not a fan of their wines.  However, our French teacher, Elenka loves their blackberry wine and she and her husband picked up several bottles…after all Christmas is coming.

After Modra we made a quick stop to a Šenkvice winery, Karpatská Perla. Great choice because I bought a delicious full-bodied Pinot Noir. I also sampled a Pinot Gris that was nice and dry, not too sweet, but I didn't  make the purchase.  I had remorse afterwards but found out I can purchase the wine in Piešťany.  

It was off to Pezinok. Next to Modra, Pezinok is probably the best known wine area. I visited three wineries and had sushi (yea!) a real treat for me. I got separated from the group and missed the last winery were everyone raved about the wines.  Oh well, maybe next time. I did purchase an acceptable Dornfelder, for 5€. A bargain especially when you consider the tour gives you back 20€ as wine coupons, and a smooth, easy tasting Frankovka Modra at the Radničná Vinotéka. They had a steel tower you could climb to get a wonderful view of the vineyards and we saw a beautiful fall sunset.  The winery offered cakes and coffee to complete the wine experience.

Enjoying the view

Sunset over the vineyard and village

Our last stop was in the Svätý Jur region near Bratislava.  I sampled many wines at the 4 stops we made, but many of the wines were just too sweet for me.  One winery had the best atmosphere, Šulkova Pivnica. There was a well-kept garden with water features and manicured trees and bushes.  The cellar looked to have the original stone masonry, decorated with medieval type of characters and antique furniture. Too bad their wines weren't to my taste.

The wine tour or wine road as it is called in Slovakia, happens yearly.  If you're interested, check out the link below and happy drinking!

http://www.mvc.sk/den-otvorenych-pivnic-2013/articles/den-otvorenych-pivnic-2013

Top Five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Slovakia

If you have been following my blog, you know I’ve had the pleasure of living in Slovakia as an ESL (English as a second language) teacher since July 2012.  Over the last several months I’ve traveled to many of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in this amazing and beautiful country.  Here are my top sites to see and a list of those I have on my “bucket list” before I leave this jewel of Central Europe.

Spis Castle view from the bottom of the hill

1. Spis Castle Listed UNESCO site 1993
One of the most formidable and oldest castle's in Slovakia, Spis Castle (Spissky hrad) dates from the 11th century and was the largest fortress complex in Central Europe with about 2,000 occupants.  Much of the castle burned down in 1780 but it is gradually being restored.  It is by far the most impressive sight from a distance.

The entrance gate leads to the lower part of the castle courtyards and is nearly 985 ft (300 m) long and 380 ft (115 m) wide.  There are walkways through the courtyards to the palace museum and chapel.

Entrance Gate

I climbed the rock stairs that are quite narrow with chains as railing handles, to the highest most point of the Romanesque upper castle tower built in the 13th century.  I do have a bit of Vertigo so this was a challenge but all worthwhile.

Information: www.spisskemuzeum.com

The town of Spisske Podhradie from the castle

2. Levoca, Historic Town Listed UNESCO World Heritage site 2009
Levoca, a beautiful, quaint village located in Eastern Slovakia between the high Tatras and Slovenske Rudohorie Mountains and Spis Castle should be on any must see list.   The architecture and artistic detail of the structures are like listening to a majestic symphony. 

 Historic homes on the square that have been preserved

There are some 60 historic houses around the main square.  Most are very well preserved in Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Neo-Classical buildings.

The Church of St. James is quite impressive but one of the biggest attractions in the main square is the former Town Hall displaying the works of Master Pavol, a Slovak national artist. If you have the opportunity visit the Pavol museum and see the artists amazing life-size wood sculptures.   Last year I had the pleasure of attending Indian Summer in Levoca. A great classical concert series and hope to attend this year too.

  

Cage of Disgrace

One of my favorite little bits in town is the "Cage of Disgrace," in which women who had committed minor crimes would be placed on display.  This wrought-iron contraption by the south wall of the town hall dates from the 16th century.  Women were locked up and put on public display for crimes ranging from nagging your husband to prostitution. Information: www.levoca.sk

3. Banska Stiavnica, Mining Centre listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Banska Stiavnica is located in Central Slovakia, what was Europe’s main mining centre during the 13th and 18th centuries and grew into the third-largest town in the Hungarian Kingdom.  In the center of town is Holy Trinity Square (Namestie sv. Tropic), decorated with Gothic and Renaissance houses.  The Holy Trinity monument is sandstone Baroque as much of the architecture in Slovakia.  The 15th century Church of St. Catherine (sv. Katerina) is located on the south-side of the square.

Entrance to the main square

Wall mosaic

Weights in the church bell tower

When the town was threatened by the Turks, the Old Castle was turned from a church into a fortress and is currently being restored, prizing many amazing artifacts.  The New Castle on a hill south of the centre was also built to ward off the Turks.  The town boasts the magnificent Mining Museum with an open air area outside the centre.

Information: www.banskastiavnica.sk

View of the chapel from the church tower

4. Vlkolinec, Typical Timber Village listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1993
Named by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1993, Vlkolinec is near the large industrial town of Ruzomberok, and is a unique example of well-preserved timber houses in a typical village in the Lipton region.  The 47 farmhouses are still inhabited and include interesting features such as an old well, which still supplies the village with water, and a 1770 belfry of the Baroque Church of the Virgin Mary. A unique feature of the settlement are parcels of land that surround the village retain the extended shape and characteristic of medieval land allotment over most of feudal Europe.

5. Caves of the Solvency Kras listed UNESCO World Heritage Site 1995
Running along the Slovak-Hungarian border in the Southeast part of Slovakia, the 4,450 limestone caves are one of the country’s karst phenomena.  Four caves; Domica, Gombasecka, Ochtinska aragonitova and Jasovska are partly open to the public.  A fifth cave, Dobsina ice cave, is in the Solvency raj (Slovak Paradise), another karst area about 25 miles (40 km) to the Northwest.  
Information, www.ssj.sk.

The best time to visit these sites is probably late spring or summer.  I've only been to the first three so the other two will have to wait.  Maybe this coming year I'll be able to get there.  There are over 20 UNESCO sites in Slovakia. If I was visiting or a couple of weeks I would rent a car as public transportation is a bit difficult to reach all the sites. Start in Central Slovakia at Banska Stiavnica, travel a short distance to Vlkolinec, then go east to Levoca, Spis Castle and finish with a tour of the Solvensky kras.  Slovakia truly is the gem of Central Europe!