Christmas Markets Open in Slovakia

'Tis the season of chestnuts roasting on an open fire, sleigh bells ringing and the voices of children singing Christmas carols.  In Slovakia it is time for the Christmas markets.  The season is marked by Advent in this primarily Catholic country.  The lighting of the village Christmas tree begins the Christmas markets.  

Christmas Tree in Piestany

At around 4pm, just as the sun is setting, the tree was lit in the main square followed by children dancing and local bands playing Christmas favorites such as Silent Night and traditional Slovak folk music.

The Christmas market size really depends on the village community.  In Piestany the tradition is only about 10 or 11 years old.  The Christmas market began in large cities like Bratislava, post Soviet rule, but has moved to all villages across the country.

Christmas Market in full swing

In the markets you will find Grog (hot rum), Punc (wine & rum punch) or mulled (hot) wine.  Try a glass of your favorite drink with Lokse, a potato pancake filled with savory goose liver or cabbage.  The pancake is made with flour, egg and boiled mashed potatoes. The mixture is put into a hot pan but not fried. I tried both the liver and cabbage and was pleasantly surprised.  I really enjoyed the taste. Normally I wouldn't even try liver but this was quite good. There are plenty of homemade cakes and cookies too.

Punc (Punch) Hot Wine with Rum

Lights in the park square

Getting Ready for 2013

The Christmas markets will be open through Advent.  This is one tradition in Slovakia I can really get behind; hot drinks, home made cakes, Lokse and of course, everyone meeting and greeting to wish each other a wonderful holiday.

Month of Photography in Bratislava, Slovakia

Photographic exhibits are more interesting to me than many other art forms.  Why I can't tell you except that I've loved looking at and taking photos since I was in my 20's.  I took photography classes after I graduated from University and would print my own photos at a local darkroom.  

When I realized the Month of Photography featuring Robert Capa was in Bratislava I had to brave the wind and cold to see the exhibit at the Slovak National Gallery.  The Slovak National Gallery is located on the Danube near Bratislava's old town.  As I walked down the stone streets I saw the city was readying for the Holiday season with many small kiosks soon to be filled with gifts, mulled wine and treats.  

Robert Capa is the famous war photojournalist and photographer who lived and worked during some of the most violent times in our history.  Born in Hungary in 1913 he moved to Berlin when he was 18. After Hitler came to power he fled to Paris and then to the U.S. where he eventually became as citizen.  

He is probably most famous for his "dying Spanish soldier" photograph taken during the Spanish Civil War (1937-39).  However, he was really in the trenches through many other wars in China, Germany during WWII and at the invasion at Omaha Beach in Normandy, with John Steinbeck after WWII in the Soviet Union and where he met his end stepping on a land mine to take a photograph in Vietnam during the First Indochina War in 1954.

It was well worth the trek to Bratislava to see these amazing photos.  The exhibit is on display until 25 November.

Count is at 0...Great Adventure Underway

Johann Stauss statue

Stephansdom

The last week has been a whirl wind of experiences, food, culture and meeting old friends and new acquaintances. After about a 13 hour flight I landed in Vienna and immediately started out by visiting all the sites. The Hotel Papageno is in a perfect location and the staff was very friendly and helpful.  It was a great value with a full breakfast and afternoon strudel and coffee included in the daily room price.  The coffee and yogurt is the best I've ever had.  

On Wednesday morning I was fortunate to be able to meet up with a former colleague for breakfast.  It was terrific to catch up and since she's lived in Vienna for several years I was able to hear about her experiences and what it is like to actually live in the city.

Maria and Dr. Wil

On Wednesday evening I attended an InterNations organization expat event at a restaurant near Vienna University.  I was introduced to Dr Wil, former English administrator at Vienna University who introduced me to Maria a friend of his working at the UN in Vienna. 

Vienna is not too far so I'm hoping to attend more expat events in the city. 

Bratislava

Bratislava is a vibrant community of about 400,000 and the capital of Slovakia. The city straddles the River Danube and is only about an hour by train from Vienna. Bratislava has been the home of several royals since 13th century. 

Many Slovaks speak English especially in the old town area and there are several English pubs in the tourist areas.  Apparently many Brits come to Bratislava for the weekend to party. 

Someone told me that Slovakia is a bit quirky. Certainly there are still remnants from the old regime and today's more modern attitudes. I'll be in Trencin soon and learning my new neighborhood and work environment.  

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Dovidenia

Where is Slovakia anyway?

When I found out I was going to moving to Slovakia I have to admit I wasn't really sure exactly where Slovakia is located. I had traveled to Prague a few years ago so I knew Slovakia was southeast of the Czech Republic. I put on my journalism cap and started researching.

I found out most people think Slovakia is in Eastern Europe.  It is actually the heart of Central Europe, with a dynamic economy and a wealth of natural resources; the Tatras Mountain range, lakes and valleys plus spectacular ice caves and national parks.  Slovakia is made up of three regions; west, central and east all with their own unique and beautiful attractions and rich folk culture.

Tatras Mountain Range

For nine centuries Slovakia was a province of the Kingdom of Hungary and for 70 years during the 20th century, part of Czechoslovakia, gaining its independence in 1993 called the "Velvet Divorce." In 2004 Slovakia became a member of the EU and NATO.

Bratislava (originally known as Pressburg) is the capital of Slovakia and was the capital of the Hungarian Kingdom forming much of the culture and architecture of the country. For centuries churches, particularly Gothic and Baroque monasteries, dominated the landscape until the 19th and 20th centuries when development of urban architecture took hold.

Bratislava straddles the River Danube at the southern end of the Small Carpathian Mountains, approximately 1 mile to the border with Austria and is only 6 miles to the border with Hungary. Both countries can be seen from the Bratislava Castle.  

I'll be staying a few days in Bratislava in the old town centre. Bratislava is a walking city (my favorite)! I didn't realize until my research Slovakia has quite an extensive wine-growing region. Fortunately there are day trips. Trencin is only an hour from Bratislava so I'm hoping to enjoy several wine tours.

Having already traveled to the Czech Republic I know pork is a Slovak staple. Unfortunately I don't eat pork so I'll be looking for several other types of recipes. Fortunately Slovak vegetables and fruits are plentiful. Halazsle, a spicy fish soup will be top of the list. AND pivo (beer) is exceptional in the region.

Clockwise from top of left: View of Novy Bridge, Danube River and Old Bratislava from Castle of Bratislava, St.Michael Gate, View of sunset in Danube River, Slovak Parliament and Bratislava Castle, Statue of Tof Slavin, Peace Earth sculpture fountain in Hodzovo Square, Bratislava Castle and fortification.

While I'm not wine touring or drinking amazing beers, I'll be hiking off the pounds in many of the walking trails. There are various types from fairly easy to difficult hikes from the Vihorlat ranges to the High Tatras. Obviously with these types of mountains skiing and snowboarding Slovakia is ideal for winter sports. I'll probably stick to cross-country skiing in the lower ranges.

Slovakia is famed for its mineral spring spas. There is a health resort in Piest'any (not too far from Trencin) I plan on trying out. Climate ranges from cool summers to cold, rainy winters. Sounds like the mineral waters will be a welcome relief in the winters. 

I'm told there isn't much of a nightlife or entertainment in Trencin, but Bratislava is an active city around the clock. During the summer there are beer, wine and music in outdoor areas throughout the town. Some music clubs are even housed in post-Communist nuclear shelters. Being a film enthusiast I'm not sure I will be able to go to an English theater but I understand many of the films are subtitled. However, it might be fun to see a film in Slovak. It would be a good way to learn the language.

One of the teachers sent me several links to Slovak online magazines and newspapers. I'm reviewing them now for tips. I've added them into my favorite links for those interested.

Trencin Castle

My next blog will concentrate on Vienna, my first stop on the journey. If you want to follow my blog, please subscribe or follow me on Twitter @steelbird323.