Naschmarkt - A Different Kind of Retail Experience

ME TOO

With only a couple of weeks left in Central Europe, I chose to go to the architecturally diverse and multi-faceted Naschmarkt area of Vienna. My colleague, Eadaoin Flynn, hadn't seen this shopper's paradise, located just below the Viennese Art Nouveau Secessions building, so I played guide. 

The eclectic stalls line up through two strips, and the market is several blocks long leading to a large flea market. Naschmarkt is one of the more traveled to places in Vienna and is a "must see" on a Saturday.  

Hundreds of people from all over the world walk through the market and you can hear various languages; English, German, Italian and Vietnamese. Eadaoin is a vegetarian and was thrilled with the health food shops, Indian spice kiosks and was extremely pleased to find fresh coriander.  Needless to say she filled up her shopping bag quite quickly.

You will find everything in the market to meet any type of appetite. I had never seen red olives before. I especially loved the mix with green, black, yellow and red.  

The smells of the market hit you immediately. If you aren't a fish lover, you might want to stay away from the top of the market where most of the fresh fish is sold. Personally I love it. Just like the sign says.

There are outdoor cafes to grab a bite to eat or just stop and have a felafel sandwich with a beer.

Even fresh flowers are available

Eadaoin and I chose an Asian restaurant, sushi for me and fried tofu with broccoli for her. It was lovely.

The day was damp, but not our spirits. We finished the afternoon at the SkyBar on the main mall with a glass of Prosecco looking out over the rooftops of Vienna. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday!

Way to party at the Vienna Christmas Markets

I'm so fortunate right now to have two working families in Piestany; Skypers Language School and The Dental Holiday clinic.  I've been putting in a few hours a week at the dental clinic on their English website assisting in marketing efforts to UK clients. I have really come to love the working environment and the people.  This holiday I was invited to share in their Christmas party at the Vienna Christmas market.

I first went to the Vienna Christmas market last year and fell in love with it.  It is one of the largest Christmas markets in central Europe. We arrived at around 4pm and started out at Stephansdom where we all had some hot wine or punch. But before that…a few of us shared some wine to make the car trip a happy one.

Betka

Barbora (left) and Hanka

From Stephansdom in the center of Vienna we walked down Karntner Strasse towards Graben to do a little window shopping and take in all the lights.

Many International languages could be heard throughout the crowd and there were a few performers on the street adding to the festive holiday cheer.  The invisible man was one of my favorites. Very creative and I'm sure uncomfortable.

We walked through the Hofburg Palace and then across the beautiful Volksgarten park to Rathausplatz, the largest Christmas market in the city.

Hofburg Palace

Rathausplatz

On this trip we didn't go to the Maria Theresaplatz market.  We just ran out of time.  The drive back was quiet, but we all had a wonderful time.

Christmas Markets in Vienna

Starting my holiday vacation in Vienna was the right course.  I had heard the Christmas Markets were amazing but I didn't realize how many there would be throughout the city.  Starting in Stephansdom surrounded by Christmas Tree stands, holiday shoppers and the smell of cinnamon and hot wine, I traveled around the Opernring past Burggarten to the Maria Teresa Monument and Maria Teresa Platz. The square was filled with people and lovely kiosks selling everything from food, wine, beer to Christmas ornaments and other trinkets.

Christmas Market at Rathauspark

The Christmas Market at Rathauspark is one of the largest in Vienna with rows and rows of Kiosks.  The market is situated across from Brugtheater and in front of Rathauspark town hall, the site of many events all year long.  The park is filled with monuments, fountains and extraordinary trees.

I understand there is a wonderful market (and much bigger) at Schloss Schonbrunn but I wasn't able to visit this market.  Maybe next year?

After a nice and stimulating dinner with my friend Maria Petrak and new friend Max Mairhofer, I went to the Magic Trumput Advent Concert.  It really wasn't what I expected.  The instruments and vocalist were behind the audience in the balcony of St Anne's church.  It was quite solemn and not at all happy and cheerful for Christmas.   

Now it is waiting for a flight out of Vienna to continue my trip to Brussels.  Look for most posts this holiday week and I hope you are enjoying this time of the season.

Count is at 0...Great Adventure Underway

Johann Stauss statue

Stephansdom

The last week has been a whirl wind of experiences, food, culture and meeting old friends and new acquaintances. After about a 13 hour flight I landed in Vienna and immediately started out by visiting all the sites. The Hotel Papageno is in a perfect location and the staff was very friendly and helpful.  It was a great value with a full breakfast and afternoon strudel and coffee included in the daily room price.  The coffee and yogurt is the best I've ever had.  

On Wednesday morning I was fortunate to be able to meet up with a former colleague for breakfast.  It was terrific to catch up and since she's lived in Vienna for several years I was able to hear about her experiences and what it is like to actually live in the city.

Maria and Dr. Wil

On Wednesday evening I attended an InterNations organization expat event at a restaurant near Vienna University.  I was introduced to Dr Wil, former English administrator at Vienna University who introduced me to Maria a friend of his working at the UN in Vienna. 

Vienna is not too far so I'm hoping to attend more expat events in the city. 

Bratislava

Bratislava is a vibrant community of about 400,000 and the capital of Slovakia. The city straddles the River Danube and is only about an hour by train from Vienna. Bratislava has been the home of several royals since 13th century. 

Many Slovaks speak English especially in the old town area and there are several English pubs in the tourist areas.  Apparently many Brits come to Bratislava for the weekend to party. 

Someone told me that Slovakia is a bit quirky. Certainly there are still remnants from the old regime and today's more modern attitudes. I'll be in Trencin soon and learning my new neighborhood and work environment.  

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Dovidenia

First Stop Vienna - Part II

Vienna Part II

I can't believe it is only a few days until I begin my new adventure starting in Vienna.  It is amazing how little I really need.  I've whittled down my belongings to two suitcases.  Seeing friends and saying goodbye to family has marked my last few days in the States.

In my Vienna Part II post I'm concentrating on some of the places I will focus my short time in the city.  I'm really looking at the three days I will be in Vienna prior to traveling to Slovakia as a way to see what I want to concentrate on the next time I visit the city.  I'm hoping to be able to see Vienna several times over the next year as it is relatively close to where I'll be living in Slovakia.

Vienna History

Karlskirche Church Mosaic

Since World War I, Vienna has been the capital of the Republic of Austria.  Vienna began as a Roman settlement known as Vindobona (meaning good wine) and subsequently became one of Europe's main trading hubs under the Austrian Habsburg's.  During the 19th century Vienna became the capital of the Austrian-Hungary Empire.  

As is the case with most Central European cities, old and new live next to each other in architecture and cultural sensibilities.



As much as politics have played a role in all of Central Europe, the church has dominated the culture and social mores more than any other institution. The Karlskirche Church was build between 1715 and 1737 to honor a patron saint for his work against the plague that claimed more than 8000 lives. The Karlskirche is a renown Baroque masterpiece.  

The Belvedere Upper Palace

Another Baroque heavyweight is The Belvedere Palaces.  Commissioned in 1714 by one of Habsburg generals, Prince Eugen of Savoy, after he received a large reward for his victories during the Spanish Succession. There are two palaces and were used as his summer homes.

The summer residence of the Habsburg's, Schloss Schonbrunn was build after the Turkish Siege between 1695 and 1713.

There are 10 top features to the palace but I'm not sure I'll be able to see them all.  I think I'll concentrate on the Grand Gallery, Napoleon's Room and the Empress Elisabeth Salon.  
Let's face it, a girl always needs to see the Salon!

Underground Vienna

Michaelerkirche Crypt

I definitely want to see "underground Vienna" with all its history and macabre glory. One such feature is the  Michaelerkirche Crypt.  The Crypt contains well-preserved mummies still wearing I definitely want to see some of the underground sites in Vienna.  One is theBaroque frocks and wigs. 

In the Middle Ages many of the Viennese houses had wine cellars.  The cellars stored vast vats of wine, vegetables and other goods.  Some of the cellars were destroyed in construction of the metro underground transportation system.


All my following posts will be "on the road" or from my residence in Slovakia. 


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Auf Wiedersehen

First Stop Vienna, Part 1

Love the hair LVB

The first stop on my great adventure will be Vienna.  With only three weeks away to the start of my journey, I've been learning about the city, its attractions and history.  

This first of two posts on Vienna will concentrate on music, opera and theatre.

Vienna is a city of contrasts; imperial grandeur with magnificent  palaces, impressive museums, imposing churches, and the home to classical music to the current contemporary architecture and charm.  Vienna was the born home or creative home to the greatest composers of all time; Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Haydn, Strauss and Brahms. 

Composers

My friend Kathleen, a trained opera singer, said Mozart is her man but for me it is Beethoven. Why Beethoven over all the rest?  As a heavy metal music fan, Beethoven is the heaviest and most abandoned composer.  His 5th symphony should only be listened to at 11 (those in the metal world will know what I mean).

He lived during a time of social change and died at the age of 56 in 1827. Beethoven was born in Bonn, Germany and moved to Vienna in 1787 to study with Mozart. After meeting with Beethoven, Mozart said, "Keep your eyes on him (Beethoven); someday he will give the world something to talk about." 

Beethoven was an innovator, expanding the scope of symphonies by combining vocals and instruments in a new way.  His personal life was marked by a struggle with deafness and a domineering drunken father.  Some of his most important and extensive musical works were written during the last 10 years of his life when he was completely unable to hear.  

His first recital was even a bit of a subterfuge by his father. Wanting his son to "one up" Mozart as a musical prodigy, Beethoven's father said his son was aged six when in fact he was seven.  Throughout his life Beethoven consistently said he was born in 1772 instead of 1770.  

Opera

Staatsoper

All my research has said The Staatsoper is a "must see" attraction. The Staatsoper is the Vienna State Opera House opened in 1869 with Mozart's Don Giovanni.  Hit by World War II bombs in 1945 it was almost entirely distorted.  It reopened in 1955 with new technology but the basic 1869 design with three box circles and two open circles were maintained.  

The opera house seats 2,880 and is the focal point of the Vienna Opera Ball, a highlight on the social calendar for Vienna's creme de creme. Since I'll be visiting in summer, I'm sure there will be a concert I can take in. 

Theatre

There are several theaters in Vienna. The Burgtheater is one of the most important theaters in the world, and choosing the director was determined on political and culture traditions of the time.  Plays are still scrutinized by the public and will trigger positive or negative reactions.  The Raimundtheater is named after the Austrian playwright Ferdinand Raimund, specializing in operettas.  The Vienna English Theatre was founded in 1963 and is the oldest English-language theatre in Europe. The Schauspielhaus has been offering literary readings, light operas and contemporary dramas since 1978.  

Burgtheater

My Vienna Part II post will provide insight on Vienna's rich culture and history. If you like my blog, please subscribe to it by clicking on the link in the right nav bar and be sure to check out my favorite links for travel and ESL information. Wiedersehen für eine Zeit.